Publications

In cosmetology, safety and sustainability are key priorities, driven by consumer demand for eco-friendly and health-conscious products. The rise of “green” and “vegan” cosmetics reflects growing environmental and ethical awareness, pushing companies to adopt sustainable practices. However, balancing efficacy, safety, and sustainability during product development is challenging. Innovations like upcycling, biodegradable packaging, and local sourcing are helping address environmental impact, while strict EU regulations (e.g., Regulation 2023/1545) ensure product safety. Transparent, science-based communication is essential to combat misinformation and promote informed consumer choices. Ultimately, consumer education is vital for fostering ethical consumption and supporting a responsible cosmetics industry.

This discussion highlights modern cosmetic science, emphasizing multi-sensory formulation, neurocosmetics, neuromarketing, and the PNEI framework, which links the psyche and skin through sensory pathways. Cosmetics today aim to enhance both appearance and emotional well-being, using evidence-based, sensory-rich formulations. Neurocosmetics leverage neuroactive ingredients to support skin health and quality of life, especially with aging. Neuromarketing, combining neuroscience and psychology, helps brands connect with consumers on a subconscious level. A holistic, science-driven, and emotionally aware approach is shaping the future of cosmetology.

Microplastics are a growing global concern due to their widespread presence in the environment and potential risks to human health. These tiny plastic particles, less than 5 mm in size, originate from the degradation of plastic waste, wear of synthetic materials like car tires and clothing, or are intentionally added to products like cosmetics. They have been detected in oceans, rivers, soil, food chains, and even the human body. Microplastics harm ecosystems, especially marine life, and may pose long-term risks to food security and public health. Efforts to address the issue include reducing plastic use, improving wastewater treatment, banning microplastics in cosmetics, and promoting sustainable alternatives. A coordinated global response is essential to mitigate their impact.

Detecting instability to correctly predict in vivo sunscreen performances

Photostability is essential to sunscreen effectiveness, as organic UV filters naturally degrade under sunlight. While some photodegradation is expected, instability due to filter-filter or filter-carrier interactions can accelerate SPF loss, disrupting protection. UV-B filters mainly determine SPF, but UV-A filters are critical for preventing long-term skin damage. Photoinstability may cause specific or broad-spectrum protection loss and is influenced by both the product’s composition and irradiation dose. ISO 24443:2021 now sets a maximum irradiation dose for in vitro testing, helping to benchmark photostability. Photoinstability manifests in distinct spectral patterns—flattened spectra, targeted wavelength drop, or overall absorbance loss—while stable formulations, especially with physical filters, show minimal degradation.

Synthetic musks, widely used in cosmetics, have raised safety and environmental concerns, leading to bans on certain compounds. One such substance, Versalide (AETT), was banned under EU Cosmetic Regulation EC 1223/2009 due to risks of neurotoxicity and environmental persistence. Despite the ban, it is still found in counterfeit cosmetics, often substituted for the structurally similar and legally permitted Galaxolide. To address this issue, a specialized GC/MS method is needed to rapidly and accurately identify and quantify both substances in complex cosmetic products.

Case study and method development

The use of analysis on human volunteers for the evaluation of product properties, or to support commercial claims, entails implications. In vivo testing on human volunteers for product claims, such as sunscreen water resistance, raises ethical and cost concerns, limiting its use in R&D. To address this, predictive in vitro methods are needed to simulate in vivo results efficiently and affordably. These methods must use realistic substrates, replicate in vivo conditions accurately, and avoid false results. The case study describes the development of an in vitro test for sunscreen water resistance (2016–2017), designed to mirror in vivo SPF reduction after water exposure. This validated method supports R&D and extends testing to conditions like saltwater, chlorinated water, and sweat—scenarios unsuitable for human testing.

Establishing the baseline for efficacy testing of photoprotection and/or restorative effects on ex vivo human hair.

Establishing a baseline for in vitro efficacy testing of photodamage on human hair is a key requirement in order to design tailored studies and efficiently predict performance without using human volunteers. Performing such a study in standardized laboratory conditions, while removing many confounding factors linked to behavior, metabolism or the environment, can provide a more reliable testing benchmark. In order to do so, sunlight simulations that mimic the exact proportions of outdoor conditions, and include all UV and visible wavelength contributing to the effect, are required. Using two possible sources of hair, baseline tensile strength and UV-VIS dose response can be established in order to provide the basis for complex and tailored in vitro studies. Sample size relative to the expected efficacy of a product can also be more easily determined.
By testing different type of hair in response to repeated UV-VIS exposure, the role of hair color, hair shaft thickness and conditions affecting repeatability were determined. Some variables, such a hair color, were observed to have a lesser impact that originally predicted. Irradiation doses required in order to determine a reliable, statistically significant damage on hair shafts were indeed found to be functionally independent from hair color, baseline hair shaft resistance and geographical source of the hair.
The amount of direct damage caused by UV exposure was observed to be lower than expected and to require higher doses than would be expected according to preexisting testing protocols. The observed dose/response is however more compatible with reported real-life conditions.

 
Endocrine Disruption by Mixtures in Topical Consumer Products

Emiliano Ripamonti¹, Elena Allifranchini¹, Elena Bocchietto¹, Stefano Todeschi¹

¹Abich srl, biological and chemical toxicology research laboratory, Verbania (VB), Italy

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SUNSCREEN TESTING: ethics, limits and critical points

Elena Bocchietto¹, Stefano Todeschi²

¹Director of the testing facility Abich srl, biological and chemical toxicology research laboratory, Verbania (VB), Italy and ²CEO Abich srl, biological and chemical toxicology research laboratory, Verbania (VB), Italy

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Behind the Claim. Skin moisturizing: how to choose the best assay

Elena Bocchietto¹, Stefano Todeschi²

¹Director of the testing facility Abich srl, biological and chemical toxicology research laboratory, Verbania (VB), Italy and ²CEO Abich srl, biological and chemical toxicology research laboratory, Verbania (VB), Italy

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