Publications

Regulatory reference: Proprietary method based on ISO 24444:2019.
Claim: SPF Sun Protection Factor
Application field: Sunscreen creams, sticks and cosmetic products.
Description of the test: Preliminary screening of the sun protection factor, UVA/SPF ratio and critical wavelength of a sunscreen formula.

 

Regulatory reference: Proprietary method
Claim: Protects and repairs the cutaneous barrier
Application field: Topical products.
Description of the test: Evaluation on 3D in vitro epidermis of the efficacy of a product in protecting against acids, alkalis or solvents.
Regulatory reference: Proprietary method
Claim: Protects and repairs the cutaneous barrier
Application field: Topical products.
Description of the test: Evaluation of the protective efficacy against acids, alkalis or solvents on in vitro 3D human epidermis, paired with evaluation of the protection against pro-inflammatory substances.
Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: Anti-hair loss
Application field: Hair products and cosmetics products for scalp treatment.
Description of the test: In vivo test: performed on selected volunteers with specific trichological features (dry and damaged hair). Volunteers will apply the product according to pre-determined frequency and methods. 10 hairs from each subject will be gathered at T=0 and T= X days (duration to be defined with the customer). Dynamometric measurements will be performed in order to evaluate the increase in tensile strength of the hairs and their resistance to breakage. Subjective evaluations will be provided by volunteers using an open and multiple choices questionnaire to verify the perceived efficacy and other parameters such as effects on hair volume and agreeability.
In vitro test: standardized locks of human hair (several types are available according to preferences) will be treated with a damaging mixture in controlled conditions. Part of the locks will then undergo treatment with the product. Comparative imaging will be performed under tangent light to highlight improvement of hair brightness. 2 samples will be taken from each lock to evaluate improvement by phase contrast microscopy or SEM.
Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: Non-comedogenic and Sebum-regulator
Application field: Visage and body cosmetics for oily skin.
Description of the test: Sebometric measurements in triplicate performed with Sebometer® at T=0 and T=X days after the treatment. Measurements will be performed on the cheeks after treatment. The untreated forehead will be used as a control. The measurements will compensate for circadian rhythms and will therefore be performed at the same time during the day. Open and closed comedones will be counted under Wood’s lamp illumination. Clinical evaluation of high resolution imaging will be performed using a contrast system at T=0 and after X days of treatment.
Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim:
Application field: Makeup and lipsticks.
Description of the test: Instrumental colorimetric evaluation: the evaluation can only be performed on pigmented products and is not applicable to transparent cosmetics. Clinical evaluation: digital imaging of the treated area at T=0 and after X hours from the application of the product. The duration of the treatment is agreed upon with the sponsor before the test.
Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: No transfer
Application field: Makeup and lipsticks.
Description of the test: Digital images of the treated area are captured immediately after application of the product and after contact with test items. Depending on the type of product testing, contact items include skin, paper cups, glass cups, napkins, white clothes.
Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: Ophthalmologically tested
Application field: Children shampoos and body washes.
Description of the test: Ophthalmology experts evaluate the conditions of the eye surface and periocular region before and after 5 and 60 minutes of application of the diluted product. Self-evaluation of itching, burning, and irritaiton feeling.
Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: Hydrates the skin
Application field: Cosmetic products.
Description of the test: Test on healthy volunteers with the following instrumental measurements:
  • Corneometric measurements of the epidermal conductivity and TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss) at T=0 and T=2 hours after application;
  • Measurement of the hydration levels at T=0 and T=6 hours from application at a depth of 0.5–1 mm.

Employed instruments:

  • Corneometer® CM285 (Courage-Khazaka GmbH, Germany) – Multiprobe Adapter Systems MPA® (Courage-Kkazaka).
  • Tewameter® TM300 (Courage-Khazaka GmbH, Germany- Multiprobe Adapter Systems MPA® (Courage-Kkazaka).
  • Moisture Meter EpiD – Delphin.
Regulatory reference: ISO 24444:2019 and Australian AS/NZS 2604:2012 protocol
Claim: SPF Sun Protection Factor
Application field: Sunscreen creams, sticks and cosmetic products.
Description of the test: Determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) on healthy volunteer through controlled irradiation and measurement of the erythemal response.