In recent years, the world of sun care has become infinitely more complex. More informed consumers, increasingly intricate regulations, and international scandals—such as the one that occurred in Australia in 2025—have shown how essential it is to ensure products that are truly effective and reliable.
Talking about sun protection no longer means limiting the discussion to a number printed on a label. It means understanding, measuring, and controlling a much broader set of factors involving light, skin, formula stability, and increasingly advanced testing techniques.
Solar radiation, for example, is not limited to UVB, which is responsible for classic sunburn. UVA rays penetrate deeper and contribute to skin aging and oxidative stress; blue light can alter cellular proliferation, promoting photo-aging; near-infrared radiation stimulates the production of free radicals and metalloproteinases—key factors in chronic skin damage. It is therefore clear that a modern sunscreen must demonstrate its effectiveness across a much wider spectrum than was considered in the past.
Innovations in sunscreen testing
SPF testing itself is evolving to address this growing complexity. The methodologies followed globally are based on ISO standards in Europe and FDA guidelines in the Americas. Although both rely on the comparison between MEDu and MEDp, they differ in panels, criteria, and standards, making access to international markets far from straightforward.
The innovations introduced at the end of 2024—such as the ISO 23675 in vitro methods and Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS)—represent a major step forward. These approaches complement traditional tests with faster, more controlled, and more reproducible procedures. However, caution is still required: not all formulations, especially those rich in mineral filters, fully fall within the validated ranges.
One of the most surprising aspects to emerge from recent analyses concerns stability. Sunscreen formulations can change over time far more than consumers might imagine. Degradation, aggregation of mineral filters, or micro-separation phenomena—often invisible to the naked eye—can significantly reduce the product’s actual SPF. Microscopic images clearly show how small aggregates, initially negligible, can grow to the point of compromising performance.
From this perspective, the Australian case served as a warning: several products that initially passed testing proved unstable over time, with significant consequences for both companies and consumers.
Alongside the most well-known tests, assessments dedicated to UVA, infrared radiation, blue light, and even environmental impact are gaining importance. Techniques for measuring NIR protection, for example, focus on reducing oxidative stress at the cellular level; blue light tests evaluate effects on mitotic activity. The “reef-safe” approach—now increasingly demanded by brands and the market—analyzes the potential impact of formulations on marine ecosystems, with particular attention to nano-sized mineral filters. Although no single, unified regulation exists on this topic, the demand for transparency is growing rapidly.
How we can support you
In such a complex scenario, our Suncare services play a strategic role for companies aiming to develop solid, credible, and scientifically sound products. From in vivo and in vitro SPF testing to UVA assessments, from photostability to studies on aggregation and crystallization, and including IR, HEV, and eco-toxicological evaluations, our approach goes beyond measuring a single value. We work alongside brands to truly understand the formulation, anticipate potential critical issues, and build robust, compliant claims for different markets.
In a world where trust and transparency have become decisive factors, going “beyond SPF” is no longer an option—it is the key to creating safer, more effective, and more responsible sunscreens. And being able to rely on well-prepared, up-to-date, and comprehensive scientific partners makes the difference between a product that truly works and one that only promises to do so.
